Helen Peacocke explores the history and culinary potential in an ancient symbol of the dauntless Welsh

An ancient battle that pitted the Saxons against the Welsh took place in Wales in a field of leeks. It’s said that during the battle King Cadwaladr of Gwynedd ordered his men to identify themselves by placing one of these leeks on their helmets. Leeks are still worn today on March 1, to commemorate St David on the anniversary of his death in 589AD, and leeks are now inscribed on the cap badge of the Welsh Guards.

As leeks are a little cumbersome and certainly difficult to pin on to a hat, most Welshmen choose to cook and eat them instead. Daffodils however, which are also a Welsh emblem, are not edible. Indeed a poison alert has gone out to shops and supermarkets to warn them not to display daffodils close to the vegetables as customers are mistaking them for the garlic chives often used in Chinese recipes. More than 60 people became ill last year and the National Poisons Information centre responded to 27 cases of daffodil poisoning which causes nausea, dizziness and abdominal pain.

Leeks are members of the Allium family, along with garlic and onions. Rather than forming a tight bulb like the onion, leeks produce a long cylinder that can be cut into slices. The edible part is close to the root and light green. The dark green section is usually discarded because of its tough texture.

Because they have a mild onion-like taste, leeks are particularly useful when making stock or in dishes where an onion flavouring is necessary but should not dominate.

Although leeks planted in the spring are ready to harvest in the autumn, many varieties are really hardy and can be left in the ground during the winter to be harvested as needed. It’s worth noting that overwintering leeks are generally more strongly flavoured than those ready in the summer.

Leeks are seldom eaten raw, unless picked when just the size of a small finger and sliced into a salad. They are often fried in hot oil (180C/350F) to obtain a crunchy texture, and they serve as a garnish that can be piled high on a finished dish to great effect. When steamed or boiled they take on a soft texture and taste superb, particularly when served with a creamy cheese sauce.

Try creating a leek, chicken and potato cheese bake which is really simple to make. You need to slice a couple of large potatoes into rings and parboil them. Prepare four leeks by slicing the white flesh into rings. Place half the potatoes in the bottom of a casserole dish after draining, add a couple of leeks, sliced chopped parsley, then more potatoes and any leeks that are over.

Finish the dish by pouring a creamy béchamel sauce over the leeks and potat-oes, then scatter grated cheese on top and bake in a hot oven until the dish bubbles and browns. A chicken, leek and potato hotpot, created from those three ingredients and a few herbs is worth considering too. It’s worth noting that creamed leeks go well with almost any fish, most particularly haddock.

The catch of the day, served on a bed of braised leeks, makes the most delightful dish. They are particularly tasty when served with a coating of grated Parmesan cheese and lightly grilled.

Leek and potato soup is a fine winter warmer and can be made as a purée by liquidising potatoes and leeks together when cooked. This dish can also be served having added a light cream sauce to the purée, or by keeping small squares of potatoes and leeks as they are, having added chicken stock and loads of parsley to the pot. Whilst you can create a soup using just herbs and the leeks, potatoes go so well with this vegetable and add bulk to the soup, so it’s hardly worth leaving them out.

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Oxford celebrity chef Sophie Grigson inventively suggests leek vinaigrette, and points out that leeks are often referred to as poor man’s asparagus, especially when dressed and served while warm but not hot.

The vinaigrette is made from white wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, olive oil and seasoning. Chopped hard-boiled egg can be sprinkled on the top. Sophie also suggests cooking them braised in a tomato sauce, though she admits the best way of cooking them really is with butter, salt and a drop of water for four to five minutes. You can’t really go wrong when cooking leeks, unless of course you don’t pay due attention when washing them. It’s vital that you wash them under running water, having removed the root to dislodge any dirt and bits of sand that are embedded between the layers in the stalk.

When you purchase them they need to be firm, slender and upright, about one-and-a- half inches in diameter. Avoid those with yellowing withered tops. Also look out for those pink brown streaks. Leeks can be stored wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator for up to five days, but don’t place them close to delicately flavoured foods, as their smell will penetrate anything close to them.