AFTER a weekend battling shoppers in London and lapping up more than my fair share of wine, I quite fancied collapsing on the sofa and enjoying David Attenborough's dulcet tones on my Sunday evening.

I took little persuasion, therefore, to make the trip to The Bear and Ragged Staff, sold by its two AA rosette rating and relative proximity to said sofa.

Walking through its cosy orangery strung with dainty lengths of fairy lights, I am glad I did not give in to laziness.

It clearly prides itself on being a gastropub, the bar area dwarfed by an expanse of restaurant with exposed stone walls and wooden floors.

The Sunday menu of course stars the traditional roast dinner, alongside other options including venison or pasta.

I am already looking ahead at the pudding options and, determined to save room for the pistachio and olive oil cake (£6.75), I order the starter of house-smoked Scottish salmon (£8) to have as my main.

In the meantime we share sun-dried tomato hummus (£3), which is nice enough but lacks the depth of flavour that wowed me at the Plum Pudding a few weeks back.

I must admit I am a little disappointed when my main arrives – beautiful though the presentation is, I was expecting slivers of cold salmon rather than a warm cooked fillet.

The poached egg yolk oozes nicely over crisp lettuce leaves when I cut into it, but the salmon itself is a smidge overcooked. The salad is also speckled with raw onions - my only real food hate – despite the waitress assuring me otherwise when I ordered.

Tom, however, has demolished his roast dinner and is now gleefully licking his knife, much to my embarrassment.

Pudding thankfully makes up for my disappointment, boasting delicious flavour and delicate presentation.

The triangles of cake are somewhere between biscuit and sponge, slightly chewy but softened by strips of cooked rhubarb and juicy pickled strawberries.

Creamy scoops of homemade custard ice cream provide sweetness alongside the sourness of the fruit, although it has a slightly floury texture.

I had hoped to be more impressed by the rest of the meal given the pub's prestige, but pudding managed to pull it back.

The Bear and Ragged Staff, Appleton Road, Cumnor, 01865 862329.