Reviewed by Sophie Grubb.

GIVEN its uninspiring location on the A40, I am surprised to discover the quirks hiding behind the entrance to LASSCO Three Pigeons.

The drone of the M40 is still audible from its car park, but the soundtrack soon changes to the chatter and clatter of a busy restaurant.

We are greeted warmly and invited to choose a table, opting for a spot within earshot of a band, who are setting up stage near the bar.

A leaflet on our table tells us live jazz is a regular highlight on a Thursday evening.

The room is haphazardly decorated with a vibrant clash of colours, ornaments and fabrics, from the swirling pattern of the curtains to flags of the world draped from the ceiling.

We start to notice tiny white price tags on many of the items surrounding our table - the light fitting on the wall, the bronze Moai-style sculptures on the windowsill, and even the door that separates the bar and restaurant.

It turns out the Three Pigeons, like LASSCO's two other eateries in London, doubles up as an antiques shop.

This revelation digested, we turn to our menus.

A starter, which will set you back between £5.50 and £8.50, boasts a confident selection.

Oxfordshire pigeon breast with beetroot and pickled wild mushrooms, at the top end of the price bracket, sounds particularly tempting.

Tom and I instead agree to share the slightly less adventurous - but cheaper - option of bread and olives (£4).

The olives are plump and fresh, and arrive quickly alongside four chunks of warm, crusty bread, with dipping oil with balsamic glaze.

Top marks for taste, but we did run out of oil - though I am sure they would have happily topped us up, had we bothered to ask.

Service is quick despite there being a large table of at least a dozen people.

Our mains are next to be presented: slow-cooked beef blade for me (£14.50) and battered haddock and chips for Tom (£12.50).

The beef is deliciously tender, served with crisp green beans and carrots, champ potato, swede purée and a red wine jus.

Slow-cooking can leave meat looking unappetisingly grey, but the beef is perfectly pink despite having been cooked (according to the menu) for 12 hours.

Tom's fish looks and tastes just as impressive, presented on newspaper-style parchment with mushy peas and tartar sauce piled into seashells.

For those convinced an antiques shop-slash-pub might be a case of Jack of all trades, master of none, I urge you to pop along and prepare for a pleasant surprise.

LASSCO Three Pigeons, London Road, Milton Common, 01844 277188.