It's known by the name of its restaurant now. Everyone talks of the Sweet Olive, though the pub is actually called The Chequers.

I last visited this pub in May 2002, when it served basic ham, egg and chip-type meals and dogs were allowed into the main bar area. I remember it fondly as the welcome we received was warm and friendly, and although the food was basic, it was good honest pub grub.

This imposing red-brick pub stands just a couple of miles from Blewbury in the little village of Aston Tirrold. As I was visiting a friend in Blewbury, and as there's a lovely footpath linking Blewbury to Aston Tirrold, it seemed a great place to walk to for lunch, especially as the sun was shining and dogs are allowed in the garden.

Unfortunately, we arrived before the staff had time to put on their professional faces. We were made to feel anything but welcome, despite the fact I'd booked a table and had arrived at the time stated.

Both my friend and I hastily retreated into the garden after grudgingly being given the drinks we'd requested.

When we did go in again, things had settled down and the man who took our order almost cracked a smile.

The interior is basic, with empty French wine boxes acting as the main eye-catching decoration on bar and pillars.

The bar remained where it was on my previous visit, with one small restaurant area to the left of the main door and a larger area right.

Most guests enter from the back door next to the car park, where there's a ramp for wheelchairs, which would account for the sudden build-up of customers inside that we hadn't noticed arriving.

I'd been warned that due to being mentioned in Egon Ronay Best Restaurants and Gastro Pubs, The Good Pub Guide and the Michelin Pub Guide, the Sweet Olive gets busy very quickly - it certainly does.

Fullers London, which is a remarkably smooth beer, and Brakspear's Bitter were on tap, and the wine list included some rather interesting bottles acquired from a Sotheby's wine auction. I'd have liked to have tried the 2003 Chateau Neuf du Pape Domaine de la Presidente, but at £35 a bottle, we decided that was for a more celebratory lunch and had soft drinks instead.

The menu is constantly changing as emphasis is placed on seasonal dishes such as the trigger fish my friend Jo selected, which was served in a delicious creamy sauce, with rice and spinach at £15.50. Trigger fish, we were told, are often caught in the lobster pots at this time of the year. They are actually a warm water fish, but have been appearing on our shores in increasing numbers. Jo really enjoyed it as it was firm-fleshed with a delicate flavour that suited the sauce perfectly.

I chose to have the crispy duck salad starter served as a main course at £12.95, a dish I love but seldom cook at home. I only order this when visiting a pub where I'm confident it will be cooked correctly. It was.

Our meals came with a selection of delicious breads and a little bowl of olives, served immediately our order was taken.

We were amused to note that a group of customers sitting on a table close to us were tucking into a giant bowl of chips. "Best chips this side of The Ridgeway," said one as he raised his glass to us.

On asking for our bill, a very smiley waitress came forward with a mobile card reader and proceeded to punch in our details. However, when she asked me to press the Yes key if I wanted to give a tip and discovered I'd pressed the No key, her whole manner changed immediately, reminding me of the welcome we did not receive on arrival.

What a shame, in all other respects the meal had been perfect.