Readers who follow my pub write-ups regularly will know I frequently wax lyrical about standing in the middle of unspoiled countryside enjoying the silence, broken only by intermittent bird song. In this busy, noisy world, such moments are memorable.

But when the silence hangs heavy on entering a pub and continues to surround me while I eat, it simply doesn't have the same effect, even when broken now and again by the gentle hum of a radio or television broadcasting in another room.

I encountered just such silence on entering The Crown, Marcham, which I had been informed was under new management and now serving food.

I have visited this pub before. This is the pub which once served a great selection of curries and whole range of tasty Indian dishes. It was a buzzing place then, attracting business people from the Abingdon area for lunch as it's only a few miles away. Then the family who served the curries left and, much to the dismay of the locals, The Crown stopped serving food.

A large sign saying that the pub is open and serving food stands outside the main door to inform one and all that changes are taking place. Unfortunately, on the day I arrived, this had done nothing to attract custom, though a stray couple, travelling on to Kingston Bagpuize, which is just down the road, did call in briefly while I was there. I was in the Marcham, having visited Denman College, the headquarters of the Women's Institute, which stands in its own grounds close to the church.

Denman's principal wanted to discuss the arrangements being made for Denman's diamond anniversary and the various celebrations that will take place there between September 23 and 28. It all sounded pretty exciting and certainly well deserving of publicity.

Apparently one of the things not to be missed during that week are the flower arrangements which will be created by branches of the WI from all over the country. They will not just be decorating the house, but the garden and the lake too. A sight not to be missed it seems.

So, there I was in this silent pub, having just enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the college.

At one time the food used to be served in the back room as well as the main bar area at the front. The back room is now the games room. A large pool table fills the space.

I admit to being pleased to discover that not only was this pub serving Ringwood Bitter, with its tempting hop aroma and nice dry finish, but Black Sheep Bitter too. This Yorkshire beer is one of my favourites. It usually comes with a rich creamy head and has a distinct refreshing taste.

Unfortunately, the half pint served to me was flat, dull and without that usual sparkle this beer is known for. Not the merest sign of a creamy head appeared as it was poured and then passed over the counter.

"The Italian meatballs are nice, they were made here on the premises," said the woman behind the bar who appeared terribly anxious I should try this special dish of the day. Who was I to argue - meatballs it was. They came served ten minutes later with linguine and loads of tomato sauce at £6.95.

The other specials on the blackboard included beef and ale pie with mash and vegetables or chips, at the same price or a jumbo sausage with mash or chips and vegetables at £5.65.

If a comment about the food is called for, perhaps it's best if I say that the chef had tried very hard to get it right, but, unfortunately, I was unable to finish this dish. So, there I sat, gazing at the attractive limestone walls, the wooden floorboards and the empty bar wondering just how long I could politely sit there before making my exit. I gave it five minutes.